{"id":402,"date":"2026-03-05T12:29:43","date_gmt":"2026-03-05T11:29:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/altitude.lu\/expeditions\/chopicalqui\/"},"modified":"2026-03-13T14:52:25","modified_gmt":"2026-03-13T13:52:25","slug":"chopicalqui","status":"publish","type":"expeditions","link":"https:\/\/altitude.lu\/en\/expeditions\/chopicalqui\/","title":{"rendered":"Chopicalqui"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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second andean expedtion: <\/mark>
Change of plans in peru<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Continuing my journey in 2025, I embarked on a second expedition with Attitude Montagne<\/em>, returning to the Peruvian Andes. Our team\u2019s initial goal was prestigious: summiting Alpamayo (5,947m), widely considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world due to the perfect ice pyramid of its west face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, just as we were set to depart, we learned that a massive serac was threatening to collapse onto Alpamayo\u2019s normal route, making the ascent far too dangerous. It was a heartbreaking decision, but we had to abandon our Alpamayo objective in favor of a safer alternative. We set our sights on Chopicalqui (6,354m), another giant of the Cordillera Blanca located near Huascar\u00e1n.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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intensified training<\/mark>
for chopicalqui<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The expedition lasted 21 days and proved even more demanding than the previous one. Chopicalqui stands at over 6,300m, requiring long traverses across glaciers, navigating major crevasses, and climbing a razor-sharp summit ridge of snow and ice.Accordingly, my preparation was intensified: with Olivier, I increased my physical workload to 10 hours of training per week, including mountain trail running with a weighted pack to simulate high-altitude efforts. With Mathieu, we refined advanced mountaineering techniques: reviewing crevasse rescue hauling systems, perfecting mixed climbing (snow\/ice\/rock), and even completing a multi-pitch ice climb together to improve my technical proficiency.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Chopicalqui : <\/mark>
High Altitude, Higher Rewards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once in Peru, the expedition went well despite a few scares caused by unpredictable weather and a severe digestive infection. After a progressive acclimatization phase\u2014including several nights at 4,500m and an advanced camp set at ~5,500m\u2014we made our summit push for Chopicalqui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The final stretch along the heavily corniced summit ridge was particularly breathtaking. We progressed with a sheer drop on either side, ensuring every single step was secure. Ultimately, I reached the summit of Chopicalqui at 6,354m in ideal weather conditions. It was a moment of immense satisfaction to summit my first 6,000m peak, especially since it stood higher than my previous climb, marking a significant new milestone in my progression.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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special thanks<\/mark>
to my team<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Reaching a summit is, above all, a collective victory. None of this would be possible without the passionate team supporting me every day.
A huge thank you to those who share in my doubts and my efforts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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  • Mathieu Guillo – High Mountain Guide<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Olivier Fizaine – Strength & Conditioning Coach<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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