second andean expedtion:
Change of plans in peru
Continuing my journey in 2025, I embarked on a second expedition with Attitude Montagne, returning to the Peruvian Andes. Our team’s initial goal was prestigious: summiting Alpamayo (5,947m), widely considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world due to the perfect ice pyramid of its west face.
However, just as we were set to depart, we learned that a massive serac was threatening to collapse onto Alpamayo’s normal route, making the ascent far too dangerous. It was a heartbreaking decision, but we had to abandon our Alpamayo objective in favor of a safer alternative. We set our sights on Chopicalqui (6,354m), another giant of the Cordillera Blanca located near Huascarán.
intensified training
for chopicalqui
The expedition lasted 21 days and proved even more demanding than the previous one. Chopicalqui stands at over 6,300m, requiring long traverses across glaciers, navigating major crevasses, and climbing a razor-sharp summit ridge of snow and ice.Accordingly, my preparation was intensified: with Olivier, I increased my physical workload to 10 hours of training per week, including mountain trail running with a weighted pack to simulate high-altitude efforts. With Mathieu, we refined advanced mountaineering techniques: reviewing crevasse rescue hauling systems, perfecting mixed climbing (snow/ice/rock), and even completing a multi-pitch ice climb together to improve my technical proficiency.
Chopicalqui :
High Altitude, Higher Rewards
Once in Peru, the expedition went well despite a few scares caused by unpredictable weather and a severe digestive infection. After a progressive acclimatization phase—including several nights at 4,500m and an advanced camp set at ~5,500m—we made our summit push for Chopicalqui.
The final stretch along the heavily corniced summit ridge was particularly breathtaking. We progressed with a sheer drop on either side, ensuring every single step was secure. Ultimately, I reached the summit of Chopicalqui at 6,354m in ideal weather conditions. It was a moment of immense satisfaction to summit my first 6,000m peak, especially since it stood higher than my previous climb, marking a significant new milestone in my progression.
special thanks
to my team
Reaching a summit is, above all, a collective victory. None of this would be possible without the passionate team supporting me every day.
A huge thank you to those who share in my doubts and my efforts.
- Mathieu Guillo – High Mountain Guide
- Olivier Fizaine – Strength & Conditioning Coach
