the call of the andes
First Expedition to Peru
After Mont Blanc, one question quickly took hold: could I go further? Could I go higher?
I began envisioning a longer expedition—one defined by complete self-sufficiency, spending nights under canvas rather than in the comfortable mountain huts of the Alps. Several destinations captured my imagination: I had considered Kyrgyzstan to attempt Lenin Peak (7,134m), as well as the Peruvian Andes. Ultimately, I chose Peru—a country that had fascinated me since childhood through documentaries, offering countless summits set within wild, untouched landscapes.
andean
roadmap
While searching online, I discovered “Attitude Montagne,” a Quebec-based agency specializing in mountaineering expeditions. For my first experience, their “Peruvian Trio” program caught my eye: the challenge was to summit three peaks in the Cordillera Blanca over 17 days—Urus Este (5,420m), Ishinca (5,530m), and Tocllaraju (6,034m). It was exactly the kind of objective I was looking for: a steady high-altitude progression over two weeks, with gradual acclimatization and multiple summit attempts to maximize the chances of success.
Roped up in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca – pushing toward the high camp beneath Tocllaraju (6,034m). This “Peruvian Trio” expedition gave me my first taste of high-altitude mountaineering, with nights spent camping in the heart of the Andes. It marked the beginning of my commitment to pursuing peaks over 6,000 meters.
the high altitude
test
This first South American expedition, which I took part in during the summer of 2024, was a true revelation. I discovered what life at high altitude is like over the long term: setting up a base camp in an isolated valley at 4,300m, trekking for hours every day to establish increasingly higher altitude camps, and learning to manage the creeping fatigue that builds up over time.
I reached the summits of Urus and Ishinca with relative ease. However, conditions on Tocllaraju were far from optimal, forcing us to turn back. We pivoted to Vallunaraju, but unfortunately, I fell ill at Camp 1 due to food poisoning. Despite these setbacks, I still succeeded in my “Peruvian Trio” challenge, returning home with two summits and invaluable experience in the high mountains.
special thanks
to my team
Reaching a summit is, above all, a collective victory. None of this would be possible without the passionate team supporting me every day.
A huge thank you to those who share in my doubts and my efforts.
- Mathieu Guillo – High Mountain Guide
- Olivier Fizaine – Strength & Conditioning Coach
